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Gold will become scarce in the early 1940s and will be rationed everywhere. As for platinum, it was unobtainable because it was requisitioned.
The shapes of the jewels of this period are very sculptural (their creators are Picasso, Dali or Braque) and thus break the established conventions.
The rings are voluminous, bold and owe nothing to Art Deco. They are gigantic. The calibrated colored stones are synthetic, mixed with diamonds and the metal of choice is yellow or rose gold. The metal is treated as a fabric, we find draped, pleated, knots and ribbons.
We observe the creation of many large bracelets and other geometric patterns. Some are articulated and recall the caterpillars of chariots. Others are made of "tubogas" or "gas pipe" mesh. The tank rings are identifiable by their impressive volume.
The jewels of the 1940's were called TANK jewels in reference to the tanks that crisscrossed our country.